lemon meringue @ blue cow

We stopped at the Blue Cow in Barrydale for coffee. This is definitely a recommended place for refreshment.
Sent via my BlackBerry

amber lagoon entrance

Sent via my BlackBerry

amber lagoon permanent tents.jpg

We spent the night at a campsite called Amber Lagoon. This is just outside Calitzdorp near the hot springs on the old concrete road. Nine years ago Susanna left Germany and sailed to South Africa on a cargo ship called "Amber Lagoon". She eventually bought a derelict farmhouse, and turned the hill behind the house into a tented campsite. Lots of hard work has produced this amazing '0ut of Africa' experience, complete with toilets under the stars and bamboo shaded tents.
Sent via my BlackBerry

bakkie and roof tent

I drive a 1994 Toyota Hilux Raider (which is a 4x4 with a 2.2 petrol engine) and it has done 300 000km. We have a roof tent which fits onto a roof rack. This is great when we travel because it folds easily. It also is useful in unfenced game reserves because the hyenas are below us and not next to the tent at night!

Sent via my BlackBerry

fireplace in kitchen

Tony is standing in front of the fireplace in the kitchen of the schoolroom/accommodation on the farm bo-jane. He is a master at a braai and we feasted on chops, chicken and pork rashers.
Sent via my BlackBerry

What's in a Name?

I got it wrong.

This farm is called bo-jani, which is a contracted form of "bobbejane" (baboons). The farm looks up at the mountains and the vegetable gardens are often raided by baboons ... and buck, and rabbits.

It is run by Thys and Carmen Henzen, who retired here from Pretoria. They offer camping and cottages. And provide meals on request.

This is a wonderfully refreshing place to stop. It is accessed by a steep gravel single-track farm road and I was grateful that we were driving our truck. We stayed next to an old schoolhouse that has been turned into bedrooms (where Granny slept) bathroom, lounge and kitchen. The kitchen has a large open hearth where we made a fire and cooked our meat.

The star-sprinkled night sky is unspoiled by city lights and our torches picked up the eyes of buck as they grazed their way down the mountain.

Refreshed we head off this mountain to see what the day brings.
Sent via my BlackBerry

Route 62

Today dawned bright and clear. After breakfast we set out from Port Alfred to Port Elizabeth, stopping at Nanaga for this roadside shop's famous roosterbrood. Coffee and jam-covered roosterbrood fortified us for the road past Port Elizabeth.

Next we stopped in Jeffreys Bay. Many people know this town as a premier surfing centre, boasting one of the best surf breaks in the word. But not our wives: they did not want the beach - insisting that we came to J-Bay to stop at the Billabong factory shop.

Many shirts and caps later we settled our nerves with a welcome cup of coffee before heading out of town. Just after Humansdorp we turned right, off the N2, into the Langkloof. This picturesque valley guides the road between two ranges of mountains, made beautiful in the evening sun.
More adventure tomorrow.

Sent via my BlackBerry

bakkie and rooftent in the Langkloof.jpg

We are camped in the Langkloof near Joubertina. This is on a farm called "Bo-Jannie" (literally 'John above') which suggests that somewhere there must be an Onder-Jannie (John-below).

Sent via my BlackBerry

Dave Fidler's Ordination

Today David Fidler was ordained into the Ministry of the Methodist Church of SA.

Dave has been my colleague for the past three years. He has a kind heart, a wicked sense of humour, and a generous capacity to make friends. He speaks well in front of crowds, has the ability to 'get things done' and is not self-important. David is a wonderful father to his three children, a great cook, and a committed husband to his wife Kirsty.

But none of this qualifies him to be a Pastor in the Church of God. The quality that allows me to give my assent to his ordination is that David's desire to serve Jesus comes wrapped in grace. He might have moments when he speaks before thinking, or where he speaks truth without sweetness in his words, but he is deeply compassionate, and has absolutely no malice in his heart.

I wish that there were more like him.
Dave: go with God.
Sent via my BlackBerry

path to madonna and child falls.jpg

A forest path. Lovely palm fronds, indigenous forest, and cool shaded walks.
Sent via my BlackBerry

starways gallery.jpg

This is the local theatre in Hogsback - complete with lights, seating, kitchen, and seats in the round.
Sent via my BlackBerry

I am Legion

Hogsback has Christians who remind me of "Legion" in Mark Chapter 5. We read of Jesus meeting a strange man in the village graveyard. In response to the question "What is your name?" he answered, saying, "My name[ is] Legion: for we are many." And Jesus responds by creating an internal, spiritual unity for this man, leaving him "in his right mind".

Well there is a stone church here called St. Patrick on the Hill. This is an Anglican Church that shares its Sundays out between ministers from the Presbyterians, the Methodists, the Dutch Reformed - and naturally the Church of England (CPSA). This has worked amicably for generations: even surviving the recent tragic fire in the chapel. The church is being restored and will soon be re-consecrated by the local bishop. Here, I thought, is Christian unity lived out in community ... A village that can live together within diversity.

But then I saw a notice posted on the door of a local coffee shop: there is a meeting scheduled for "all the Christians" of Hogsback to discuss building another Christian church. Huh? This will be called ... wait for it ... Hogsback United Church Fellowship! I am always amazed at how those who break away to begin yet another church will claim the word "united" for themselves. So the legion of Christian churches divide yet again.

But remember what Jesus did with "Legion", and with hogs?
Sent via my BlackBerry

Dangerous Running

In Hogsback Village it is safer to run in the centre of the road than to run at the side! This is because the road is rutted and littered with potholes, and motorists choose to drive along the outer edges of the road - which makes the middle of the road the safest place for my daily run.

I run a gradual uphill through the Village: on the right I pass the local Backpackers called "Away with the Fairies", followed by the Laughing Feathers Gallery, then the Enchanted Tree House, and the Hoggest Shop. A little further up, on the left, is Hobbit Lane, Granny Mouse House, and Mist Rising Nursery.

I turned at Hidden Lane, and headed back down hill, dodging cars driven by the locals ferrying the working classes homewards - unlike the vacationing classes out running their roads. There were monkeys swinging through the trees alongside the road, loeries calling to each other in the sunset, and a drunk woman berating customers outside the off sales.

I finished off my 5km run with a hot shower, and supper in front of the fire with good friends.

A great end to the day.
Sent via my BlackBerry

Magical, Mystical Hogsback

We are camping. And experienced four seasons in one day: rain, sunshine, mist, more rain, and now a gusting wind.

We are at the village of Hogsback in the Amathole Mountains (Latitude 32*-35'475" Longitude 26*-55'805") This is found by driving through Alice (home to Fort Hare University), and climbing a winding road to 1200m above sea level. At the summit we emerged into a forest village that boasts places with names like Fairy Realm, Starways Pottery, Back 'o the Moon, Hobbiton, and Never Daunted. There is clearly much to be explored.

Today was the Coffee Barn at Misty Mountain, where we had coffee and chocolate cake in front of a warm fire. More places for coffee tomorrow.
Sent via my BlackBerry

Stop off in Alice

Sent via my BlackBerry

The Ostridge

Our trip has taken us through Calitzdorp, Oudtshoorn, De Rust, and Willowmore. All share a passion for this bird. These prehistoric birds have wings but cannot fly; have the ability to kick forwards; and lay eggs that equal 24 hen's eggs. They are farmed for their eggs (the largest of any living bird), their meat (low in cholesterol) and their skin (similar to leather in its durability).
Sent via my BlackBerry

Die Bliksem is Oop

Sent via my BlackBerry

IMG00102-20100917-2104.jpg

At Anysberg the swallows use the bathroom as their home.
Sent via my BlackBerry

Seweweekspoort

We deviated off the R62, turning left at Ladysmith into the hills and stayed at the Anysberg Nature Reserve. Our campite was about 70km off the beaten track, surrounded by Gemsbok, jakall calling during the night, and friendly horses.

This morning we returned to the R62 via Seweweekspoort (sevenweeks cutting). This is a deep cleft in the rocks that has been used by travellers since "time before memory" and asks the passer by to repeatedly cross the river as you wind your way through the sheer rock cliffs towering above.
Sent via my BlackBerry

Exploring

One of the joys of travel is the opportunity to visit interesting places along the way.

This is a pub on the road between Barrydale and Ladysmith that began its life as a farm stall. The alleged story is that one weekend while Ronny was away, his friends changed the sign on his farm stall. And ever since then people have wanted to stop off here! It is now a pub festooned with graffiti -and bras and panties donated by visitors. There is also a coffee shop for those like us who do not want to drink and drive.
Sent via my BlackBerry